Queensland outback

FLIES, flies and more flies ... that was the most irritating thing about our latest adventure, which took us into the arid central Queensland outback. Even some of the locals were wearing fly veils!

The swarms of kamikaze flies were the result of recent weather changes, or so we were told.

But it was not only the pesky air raiders that posed problems. We also chipped our windscreen, hit a kangaroo, took on water-contaminated fuel -- which left us stranded at the side of the road -- and almost mowed down a dingo busily feeding on roadkill.

Despite all this, it was an interesting and enjoyable trip to some of the more remote towns of the State.

The three-week 2680-kilometre odyssy took in Dalby, Roma, Tambo, Blackall, Barcaldine, Willows Gemfields, Emerald, Biloela and Cania Gorge.

Our Ford Falcon AU, hauling an 18ft Jayco Westport full shower 'van, guzzled 538 litres of petrol, averaging 4.97 kilometres a litre. With fuel costing between 88.9 and 104.9 cents a litre, we forked out $19.62c for every 100 kilometres travelled.

Leaving Gympie, we headed along the Wide Bay Highway and lunched at Goomeri before making for Cooyar where we overnighted at a very pleasant rest area. Total mileage for the day was 222km.

Next morning we joined the quiet Warrego Highway and headed west to the Yuleba rest area for the second night. It was then onto Mitchell for three nights, taking advantage of the wonderful Artesian Spa there.

Continuing along the Warrego Highway, we explored the delightful town of Morven before heading north onto the Matilda Highway and into Tambo. We overnighted on the delightful, though sometimes noisy, rest area alongside the lakes at the southern end of town.

While in Tambo, we visited Tambo Teddies and came away with a very cute and cuddly teddy called Wellwater Whiskey, named after one of the local properties.

It was then on to Blackall for the night. The local Shire charges campers and caravanners $5 to spend a night in rest areas so we paid up and pitched in a large grass field alongside the Barcoo River near the town centre. Pleasant enough, though no facilities.  We joined the Capricorn Highway at Barcaldine, where we turned east and spent two nights at the very acceptable local showground.

Next day we pottered along for just under 100km before dropping the 'van steadies for one night on the delightful Jericho Showgrounds. Wonderful manicured grass, concrete slabs, toilets and hot showers ... all free, courtesy of the local authority.

We continued heading east to the Willows Gemfields where we stayed for three nights. Not the best of sites thanks to the prolonged drought and lack of water. And the fact that we spent virtually the whole three backbreaking days digging, wielding a pick, sifting and washing rocks without even a glimmer of a sapphire or other gemstone didn't help.

On to Emerald and serious shopping for provisions. The night was spent at the city's Botanical Gardens rest area before continuing along the Capricorn Highway through Blackwater and Dingo, turning right and into Dululu.

We overnighted here at the very nice rest area provided by the local Progress Association. The association is to be congratulated on a well-kept and welcome facility.

Then it was on to the sometimes narrow and rough-surfaced Highway 17 to Biloela and three nights visiting relatives.

A little further south saw us arrive at the enchanting Big 4 site at Cania Gorge for a couple of nights. We cannot recommend this well run and friendly site enough. It's well worth a visit.

On the final day we continued heading south along Highway 17 to Goomeri where we turned left onto the Wide Bay Highway and home.